為了適應(yīng)Z世代日益增長的消費(fèi)能力,奢侈品市場正迎來徹底變革。貝恩公司(Bain & Company)表示,Z世代消費(fèi)者與千禧一代“是2022年奢侈品市場增長的支柱”,預(yù)計(jì)到2025年將占奢侈品支出的70%。
奢侈品牌面臨的挑戰(zhàn)是,Z世代與前幾代消費(fèi)者的價(jià)值體系越發(fā)分化。為了吸引和留住他們,奢侈品牌必須迅速超越傳統(tǒng)的奢侈品概念——如地位、傳承、貴重和傳統(tǒng),轉(zhuǎn)向當(dāng)前流行的全新價(jià)值觀:包容、可持續(xù)、透明、技術(shù)和循環(huán)創(chuàng)新。
由于奢侈品往往在不經(jīng)意間與文化和商業(yè)建立起某種聯(lián)系,奢侈品市場不可避免出現(xiàn)解構(gòu)。現(xiàn)實(shí)中,人們經(jīng)常驚訝地發(fā)現(xiàn)從奢侈品牌與一些高端品牌合作,尤其文化聲望或價(jià)值觀與奢侈品牌相符的高端品牌。但面對(duì)Z世代,各品牌必須格外謹(jǐn)慎。
備受期待的蒂芙尼(Tiffany & Co)與耐克合作推出的限量版Air Force Ones運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋可能拓展了“奢侈品”的定義,然而在社交媒體上引發(fā)強(qiáng)烈抵制,因?yàn)橐宰R(shí)貨知名的運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋鑒賞家聲稱“信譽(yù)可買不來”。
相較而言,eBay殺入奢侈品市場的舉動(dòng)或許更成功。最近eBay在紐約推出奢侈品交易所,邀請(qǐng)購物者給奢侈品鑒定估價(jià),然后能在平臺(tái)上葆蝶家(Bottega Veneta)和卡地亞( Cartier)等頂級(jí)奢侈品賣家購物。此舉顯示了流動(dòng)性和透明度新概念如何將eBay之類日常品牌推上奢侈品前沿。同時(shí)也表明,為了彰顯新興價(jià)值觀,奢侈品牌其實(shí)樂意建立看似不可能的合作伙伴關(guān)系。
eBay的例子也凸顯了奢侈品行業(yè)如何努力滿足對(duì)二手奢侈品日益增長的需求,估計(jì)2022年該市場價(jià)值430億歐(約合460億美元)。趨勢的背后是年輕消費(fèi)者對(duì)可持續(xù)和循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)的重視。根據(jù)塔塔咨詢服務(wù)公司(Tata Consultancy Services)的數(shù)據(jù),84%的Z世代消費(fèi)者和73%的千禧一代更愿意為可持續(xù)生產(chǎn)和符合道德的產(chǎn)品付費(fèi)。一定程度上是因?yàn)閆世代希望成為“收藏家”,將二手奢侈品當(dāng)成可持續(xù)投資和資產(chǎn)以便日后交易,而不像以前一樣將其視為地位象征或傳家寶。
最近勞力士(Rolex)推出了二手認(rèn)證計(jì)劃,表明奢侈品牌在保持卓越品質(zhì)和傳統(tǒng)價(jià)值的同時(shí),也在努力適應(yīng)奢侈品的新概念。2021年,酩悅·軒尼詩-路易·威登集團(tuán)(LVMH)旗下的鐘表制造商真力時(shí)(Zenith)推出了一系列產(chǎn)品,可為過往型號(hào)鑒定、修復(fù)和認(rèn)證,方便出售給購買二手奢侈品的消費(fèi)者。
與此同時(shí),普拉達(dá)(Prada)首次涉足高級(jí)珠寶,推出了100%回收黃金制成的系列產(chǎn)品。該產(chǎn)品代言人選擇了詩人兼激進(jìn)人士阿曼達(dá)·戈?duì)柭鞔_宣告奢侈品的新象征是多元化、包容、社區(qū)和平等。
奢侈品行業(yè)通過表達(dá)對(duì)新興技術(shù)的支持吸引年輕消費(fèi)者,也利用新技術(shù)協(xié)助實(shí)現(xiàn)其他新興價(jià)值觀,如透明度和包容性。
LVMH、普拉達(dá)和梅賽德斯-奔馳(Mercedes-Benz)都已經(jīng)開始使用區(qū)塊鏈技術(shù)追蹤產(chǎn)品的生命周期,表明對(duì)每件產(chǎn)品的制造和采購流程充分負(fù)責(zé)任,且100%真實(shí)。這對(duì)奢侈品珠寶市場意義重大,戴比爾斯(De Beers)已經(jīng)在探索如何利用區(qū)塊鏈追蹤每顆鉆石。
各大品牌也利用技術(shù)創(chuàng)造虛擬空間吸引年輕消費(fèi)者,比如試驗(yàn)版“古馳藏寶閣”(Gucci Vault),通過虛擬展示古董物品和游戲等互動(dòng)時(shí)尚體驗(yàn),向玩家介紹該奢侈品牌的歷史。與此同時(shí),Web3數(shù)字市場正顛覆奢侈品行業(yè),為設(shè)計(jì)師提供了另一處市場,可以銷售實(shí)體和數(shù)字版作品,例如非同質(zhì)化代幣。
退回五年或十年前,從與高端品牌合作,二手商品再到循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)和虛擬市場,都會(huì)讓奢侈品行業(yè)感到不適。如今種種新現(xiàn)象似乎都與文化相關(guān),清楚顯示年輕人如何廣泛且迅速地重新定義奢侈品市場價(jià)值。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
索菲·馬克斯韋爾是Pearlfisher公司前景與洞見部合伙人。Pearlfisher是一家位于倫敦和紐約的戰(zhàn)略創(chuàng)意和品牌設(shè)計(jì)公司。
Fortune.com上評(píng)論文章中表達(dá)的觀點(diǎn)僅代表作者個(gè)人觀點(diǎn),并不代表《財(cái)富》雜志的觀點(diǎn)和立場。
譯者:梁宇
審校:夏林
為了適應(yīng)Z世代日益增長的消費(fèi)能力,奢侈品市場正迎來徹底變革。貝恩公司(Bain & Company)表示,Z世代消費(fèi)者與千禧一代“是2022年奢侈品市場增長的支柱”,預(yù)計(jì)到2025年將占奢侈品支出的70%。
奢侈品牌面臨的挑戰(zhàn)是,Z世代與前幾代消費(fèi)者的價(jià)值體系越發(fā)分化。為了吸引和留住他們,奢侈品牌必須迅速超越傳統(tǒng)的奢侈品概念——如地位、傳承、貴重和傳統(tǒng),轉(zhuǎn)向當(dāng)前流行的全新價(jià)值觀:包容、可持續(xù)、透明、技術(shù)和循環(huán)創(chuàng)新。
由于奢侈品往往在不經(jīng)意間與文化和商業(yè)建立起某種聯(lián)系,奢侈品市場不可避免出現(xiàn)解構(gòu)。現(xiàn)實(shí)中,人們經(jīng)常驚訝地發(fā)現(xiàn)從奢侈品牌與一些高端品牌合作,尤其文化聲望或價(jià)值觀與奢侈品牌相符的高端品牌。但面對(duì)Z世代,各品牌必須格外謹(jǐn)慎。
備受期待的蒂芙尼(Tiffany & Co)與耐克合作推出的限量版Air Force Ones運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋可能拓展了“奢侈品”的定義,然而在社交媒體上引發(fā)強(qiáng)烈抵制,因?yàn)橐宰R(shí)貨知名的運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋鑒賞家聲稱“信譽(yù)可買不來”。
相較而言,eBay殺入奢侈品市場的舉動(dòng)或許更成功。最近eBay在紐約推出奢侈品交易所,邀請(qǐng)購物者給奢侈品鑒定估價(jià),然后能在平臺(tái)上葆蝶家(Bottega Veneta)和卡地亞( Cartier)等頂級(jí)奢侈品賣家購物。此舉顯示了流動(dòng)性和透明度新概念如何將eBay之類日常品牌推上奢侈品前沿。同時(shí)也表明,為了彰顯新興價(jià)值觀,奢侈品牌其實(shí)樂意建立看似不可能的合作伙伴關(guān)系。
eBay的例子也凸顯了奢侈品行業(yè)如何努力滿足對(duì)二手奢侈品日益增長的需求,估計(jì)2022年該市場價(jià)值430億歐(約合460億美元)。趨勢的背后是年輕消費(fèi)者對(duì)可持續(xù)和循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)的重視。根據(jù)塔塔咨詢服務(wù)公司(Tata Consultancy Services)的數(shù)據(jù),84%的Z世代消費(fèi)者和73%的千禧一代更愿意為可持續(xù)生產(chǎn)和符合道德的產(chǎn)品付費(fèi)。一定程度上是因?yàn)閆世代希望成為“收藏家”,將二手奢侈品當(dāng)成可持續(xù)投資和資產(chǎn)以便日后交易,而不像以前一樣將其視為地位象征或傳家寶。
最近勞力士(Rolex)推出了二手認(rèn)證計(jì)劃,表明奢侈品牌在保持卓越品質(zhì)和傳統(tǒng)價(jià)值的同時(shí),也在努力適應(yīng)奢侈品的新概念。2021年,酩悅·軒尼詩-路易·威登集團(tuán)(LVMH)旗下的鐘表制造商真力時(shí)(Zenith)推出了一系列產(chǎn)品,可為過往型號(hào)鑒定、修復(fù)和認(rèn)證,方便出售給購買二手奢侈品的消費(fèi)者。
與此同時(shí),普拉達(dá)(Prada)首次涉足高級(jí)珠寶,推出了100%回收黃金制成的系列產(chǎn)品。該產(chǎn)品代言人選擇了詩人兼激進(jìn)人士阿曼達(dá)·戈?duì)柭鞔_宣告奢侈品的新象征是多元化、包容、社區(qū)和平等。
奢侈品行業(yè)通過表達(dá)對(duì)新興技術(shù)的支持吸引年輕消費(fèi)者,也利用新技術(shù)協(xié)助實(shí)現(xiàn)其他新興價(jià)值觀,如透明度和包容性。
LVMH、普拉達(dá)和梅賽德斯-奔馳(Mercedes-Benz)都已經(jīng)開始使用區(qū)塊鏈技術(shù)追蹤產(chǎn)品的生命周期,表明對(duì)每件產(chǎn)品的制造和采購流程充分負(fù)責(zé)任,且100%真實(shí)。這對(duì)奢侈品珠寶市場意義重大,戴比爾斯(De Beers)已經(jīng)在探索如何利用區(qū)塊鏈追蹤每顆鉆石。
各大品牌也利用技術(shù)創(chuàng)造虛擬空間吸引年輕消費(fèi)者,比如試驗(yàn)版“古馳藏寶閣”(Gucci Vault),通過虛擬展示古董物品和游戲等互動(dòng)時(shí)尚體驗(yàn),向玩家介紹該奢侈品牌的歷史。與此同時(shí),Web3數(shù)字市場正顛覆奢侈品行業(yè),為設(shè)計(jì)師提供了另一處市場,可以銷售實(shí)體和數(shù)字版作品,例如非同質(zhì)化代幣。
退回五年或十年前,從與高端品牌合作,二手商品再到循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)和虛擬市場,都會(huì)讓奢侈品行業(yè)感到不適。如今種種新現(xiàn)象似乎都與文化相關(guān),清楚顯示年輕人如何廣泛且迅速地重新定義奢侈品市場價(jià)值。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
索菲·馬克斯韋爾是Pearlfisher公司前景與洞見部合伙人。Pearlfisher是一家位于倫敦和紐約的戰(zhàn)略創(chuàng)意和品牌設(shè)計(jì)公司。
Fortune.com上評(píng)論文章中表達(dá)的觀點(diǎn)僅代表作者個(gè)人觀點(diǎn),并不代表《財(cái)富》雜志的觀點(diǎn)和立場。
譯者:梁宇
審校:夏林
The luxury market is undergoing a radical transformation as it adapts to the growing spending power of Gen Z. Along with Millennials, these consumers accounted “for the entire growth of the luxury market in 2022,” according to Bain & Company, and are predicted to represent 70% of luxury spending by 2025.
The challenge for luxury brands is that Gen has increasingly divergent value systems from previous generations of consumers. To attract and keep them engaged, luxury brands are rapidly having to move beyond the traditional notions of luxury–such as status, legacy, prestige, and heritage–towards a new set of values: inclusivity, sustainability, transparency, technology, and circular innovation.
This is leading to a deconstruction of the luxury market as it builds connections with other, often unexpected, parts of culture and commerce. On the ground, this can be seen in surprising partnerships between luxury brands and high-street brands, particularly ones that have the cultural cachet or values that luxury brands are seeking to develop. But brands have to tread carefully here.
Tiffany & Co’s?highly anticipated collaboration with Nike on a limited edition pair of Air Force Ones may have pushed the boundaries of what “l(fā)uxury” means today–but it caused a backlash on social media as sneaker connoisseurs, notorious for their discernment, claimed that “you can’t buy cred.”
eBay’s surprising entry into the luxury market was perhaps more successful. The brand’s recent Luxury Exchange pop-up in New York invited shoppers to have their luxury goods appraised and valued, which they could then use to purchase items from the platform’s top luxury sellers, including Bottega Veneta and Cartier. This shows how new notions of fluidity and transparency can reposition an everyday brand such as eBay at the cutting edge of luxury. It also shows the willingness of luxury brands to forge unlikely partnerships as a way to express these emerging values.
The eBay example also highlights how the luxury sector is evolving to meet the growing demand for pre-owned luxury goods, a market estimated to be worth €43 billion in 2022 (circa $46 billion). This trend is being fueled by the importance younger consumers are placing on sustainability and circular economies. 84% of Gen Z consumers and 73% of Millennials will spend more on sustainably produced and ethically sourced products, according to Tata Consultancy Services. This is partly due to their desire to become “collectors” in their own right and buy second-hand luxury items as sustainable investments and assets to trade at a later date, rather than as pristine status symbols or heirlooms.
Rolex recently launched a certified pre-owned program, a move that shows how luxury brands can adapt to new notions of luxury while maintaining traditional values of superior quality and heritage. In 2021, LVMH-owned watchmaker Zenith launched a range that authenticates, restores, and certifies models from its archives to sell to consumers shopping for pre-owned luxury goods.
Meanwhile, Prada’s first foray into fine jewelry is a collection made from 100% recycled gold. It was launched with a campaign featuring poet and activist Amanda Gorman, a clear sign that the new figureheads of luxury are those that represent diversity, inclusivity, community, and equality.
The luxury sector is also engaging younger consumers by showing an appreciation of emerging technology and using it to help realize other emerging values, such as transparency and inclusivity.
LVMH, Prada, and Mercedes-Benz have started using blockchain technology to help trace the lifecycle of their products to show that each one has been responsibly made and sourced, and is 100% authentic. This has significant implications for the luxury jewelry market, with De Beers already exploring how every single diamond they use can be traced using blockchain.
Brands are also using technology to create virtual spaces to engage younger consumers, such as the experimental ‘Gucci Vault’: an interactive fashion experience that includes a virtual display of vintage items and games that teach players about the luxury house’s history. Meanwhile, Web3 digital marketplaces are disrupting the luxury sector by offering designers an alternative marketplace where they can sell both physical and digital versions of their products, such as NFTs.
A mere five or 10 years ago, all of these developments–from high-street partnerships and second-hand goods to circular economies and virtual marketplaces–would have felt jarring for the luxury sector. Today, they seem completely culturally relevant, a clear indication of just how widely and rapidly young people are redefining the values of the luxury market.
Sophie Maxwell is partner, futures and insight, at Pearlfisher, a strategic creative and brand design agency in London and New York.
The opinions expressed in Fortune.com commentary pieces are solely the views of their authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and beliefs of Fortune.