買口紅的人少了，但“口罩妝”火了
Rachel King
2020-08-17
數個月來，消費者對眼妝的興趣越來越濃厚，這一點與年初新冠疫情爆發以來口罩使用量的增加基本同步。在中國，阿里巴巴稱眼妝產品2月底的銷量環比增長了150%。在韓國，GS Retail旗下保健與美容連鎖店Lalavla眼部化妝品3月的銷量同比增長了51.8%。首爾愛敬公司旗下化妝品品牌Luna 3月眼線產品的月訂單量增長了100%。在韓國經營百貨店和折扣店的樂天商城發現迪奧和芭比波朗（Bobbi Brown）等高端美容品牌亦在2月迎來了眼妝產品40%的銷量增幅。
阿里巴巴新聞部的克里斯汀·周（音譯）在3月30日為Alizila提供的文章中寫道：“此次美容熱背后的一個推手在于‘口罩妝’的流行，這個社交媒體上的熱門話題自中國美容影響力人物分享新冠疫情期間佩戴外科口罩的妝容之后成為了矚目焦點。通過淘寶生活這個平臺，一系列展現如何打造口罩妝的直播在2月18日吸引了820萬名觀眾，并讓眼影盒的當周月度同比銷量增長了150%。”
來自于Kosas Cosmetics的眼影組合，這是一個清潔美容品牌，擁有不少擁躉。圖片來源：Courtesy of Kosas Cosmetics
在化妝品行業，美國口紅銷量出現了最大跌幅，亞馬遜的數據顯示跌幅達到了15%，而眼部化妝品則在4月11日之前的4周出現了5%的增幅。潔膚美容品牌Kosas Cosmetics的創始人希娜·雅塔尼斯稱，公司1至8月的眼部類目化妝品銷量增長了12%。Kosas Cosmetics的追隨者不乏時尚人士和明星。
雅塔尼斯向《財富》雜志透露：“我們看到的最重要一點在于，我們在2019年所看到的趨勢出現了加速，而且這個趨勢已經不再是前些年充斥著各大訂閱內容的那種復雜、多層、超級精致的妝容。”
e.l.f. Cosmetics副總裁蓋伊特里·布哈拉嘉說：“隨著消費者越發注意化妝時的衛生問題，我們認為眼影刷將繼續熱賣，而且我們的眼影刷正是為此而生。”圖片來源：Courtesy of e.l.f. Cosmetics
e.l.f. Cosmetics的品牌副總裁蓋伊特里·布哈拉嘉認為，眼妝熱背后的推手可能不僅僅是口罩佩戴強制令，同時還包括人們以靚麗形象參加視頻電話和會議的愿望。
布哈拉嘉說：“我們看到人們的化妝趨勢發生了轉變，從粉底類產品變為淡妝產品或有助于人們‘進入Zoom狀態’的產品，例如遮瑕霜。盡管色彩更飽滿的口紅的銷量有所下降，但傳統上輕質地化妝品的銷量，例如唇彩和唇膏，則有所上升。”
布哈拉嘉稱，她看到行業內的眼妝產品銷量在疫情發生之后呈現出疲態，并解釋說，e.l.f.品牌也看到了這種轉變：眉毛和眼線產品銷量雖然依然不錯，但增速有所放緩，而眼影銷量有所上升。布哈拉嘉引用了2020年6月的尼爾森公司數據，并說道：“我們看到，今年早些時候發布的產品呈現出了良好勢頭，[Bite-Size眼影和Liquid Glitter眼影]，同時我們的核心產品——全美銷量第一的黑色眼線筆和眉筆——也保持著持續增長。”
Amazing Lash Studio的首席執行官哈澤·埃爾羅德稱：“即便在Zoom大行其道的環境下，哪怕是些許自我護理也并非是件簡單的事情。我認為將長存于業界的一個美容趨勢在于：如何讓化妝簡單化。”圖片來源：Courtesy of Amazing Lash Studio
銷售業績激增的不僅僅是眼妝產品，同時還有專注于眼部的美容服務，例如睫毛嫁接以及睫毛和眉毛永久染色。
得州多家Amazing Lash Studio店面的所有者艾米麗·拉彭說：“我認為原因在于，在強制戴口罩的情況下，女性會更多地去關注其眼部的外觀。”在疫情爆發之前，拉彭稱所有店面的銷售業績都呈現出上升趨勢，而且會員數量屢創新高。在重新開業之后，會員數量至少在60天之后才再次穩定下來。但自從疫情爆發之后，拉彭稱店面在3月之后的潛在客戶數量同比增長了約46%，線上潛在客戶數量增長了22%。
拉彭說：“由于大多數州當前都實施了口罩佩戴強制令，我認為睫毛服務在今后將變得比疫情之前更受歡迎。即便帶著口罩，其他人依然能看到，也只能看到你美麗的雙眼，而不是你的妝容或嘴唇。”
如今，Amazing Lash Studio全美所有店面都已經開業，并提供店內服務，但加州除外，因為該店由于7月加州新冠病例的上升而被勒令閉店。然而，眾多店面的經理正在盡最大努力在店面之外提供睫毛嫁接服務。
Amazing Lash Studio的首席執行官西澤·埃爾羅德說：“公司的一些店面所有者想盡了一切辦法來提供店面外服務，例如將停車場或人行道變為工作室，同時遵循公司已經實施的業內領先的安全衛生準則。”他還表示，一些工作室發現室外營業業績比疫情前店內業績更高。“顧客非常感激能有機會享受些許個人護理服務以及回歸生活常態。”
在其他州已經重新營業的店面中，店面較低的接待能力難以滿足人們被壓抑的需求，埃爾羅德將其歸咎于每個預約之間所需的深度清潔時間，店面需要用這些時間來深度打掃包間和公共區域。此舉要求沙龍經理們在預約安排方面運用更多的策略，包括使用交錯排班來避免接待區的人流聚集。
埃爾羅德說：“在眼下這個時期，口罩已經成為人們生活的一部分。相對于以前，我們的雙眼已經成了一種更為有力的自我展現方式。我們的專注點一直在于掌控自己的雙眼，而且我們對于創新的承諾從未改變。”（財富中文網）
譯者：Feb
數個月來，消費者對眼妝的興趣越來越濃厚，這一點與年初新冠疫情爆發以來口罩使用量的增加基本同步。在中國，阿里巴巴稱眼妝產品2月底的銷量環比增長了150%。在韓國，GS Retail旗下保健與美容連鎖店Lalavla眼部化妝品3月的銷量同比增長了51.8%。首爾愛敬公司旗下化妝品品牌Luna 3月眼線產品的月訂單量增長了100%。在韓國經營百貨店和折扣店的樂天商城發現迪奧和芭比波朗（Bobbi Brown）等高端美容品牌亦在2月迎來了眼妝產品40%的銷量增幅。
阿里巴巴新聞部的克里斯汀·周（音譯）在3月30日為Alizila提供的文章中寫道：“此次美容熱背后的一個推手在于‘口罩妝’的流行，這個社交媒體上的熱門話題自中國美容影響力人物分享新冠疫情期間佩戴外科口罩的妝容之后成為了矚目焦點。通過淘寶生活這個平臺，一系列展現如何打造口罩妝的直播在2月18日吸引了820萬名觀眾，并讓眼影盒的當周月度同比銷量增長了150%。”
在化妝品行業，美國口紅銷量出現了最大跌幅，亞馬遜的數據顯示跌幅達到了15%，而眼部化妝品則在4月11日之前的4周出現了5%的增幅。潔膚美容品牌Kosas Cosmetics的創始人希娜·雅塔尼斯稱，公司1至8月的眼部類目化妝品銷量增長了12%。Kosas Cosmetics的追隨者不乏時尚人士和明星。
雅塔尼斯向《財富》雜志透露：“我們看到的最重要一點在于，我們在2019年所看到的趨勢出現了加速，而且這個趨勢已經不再是前些年充斥著各大訂閱內容的那種復雜、多層、超級精致的妝容。”
e.l.f. Cosmetics副總裁蓋伊特里·布哈拉嘉說：“隨著消費者越發注意化妝時的衛生問題，我們認為眼影刷將繼續熱賣，而且我們的眼影刷正是為此而生。”
布哈拉嘉說：“我們看到人們的化妝趨勢發生了轉變，從粉底類產品變為淡妝產品或有助于人們‘進入Zoom狀態’的產品，例如遮瑕霜。盡管色彩更飽滿的口紅的銷量有所下降，但傳統上輕質地化妝品的銷量，例如唇彩和唇膏，則有所上升。”
布哈拉嘉稱，她看到行業內的眼妝產品銷量在疫情發生之后呈現出疲態，并解釋說，e.l.f.品牌也看到了這種轉變：眉毛和眼線產品銷量雖然依然不錯，但增速有所放緩，而眼影銷量有所上升。布哈拉嘉引用了2020年6月的尼爾森公司數據，并說道：“我們看到，今年早些時候發布的產品呈現出了良好勢頭，[Bite-Size眼影和Liquid Glitter眼影]，同時我們的核心產品——全美銷量第一的黑色眼線筆和眉筆——也保持著持續增長。”
銷售業績激增的不僅僅是眼妝產品，同時還有專注于眼部的美容服務，例如睫毛嫁接以及睫毛和眉毛永久染色。
得州多家Amazing Lash Studio店面的所有者艾米麗·拉彭說：“我認為原因在于，在強制戴口罩的情況下，女性會更多地去關注其眼部的外觀。”在疫情爆發之前，拉彭稱所有店面的銷售業績都呈現出上升趨勢，而且會員數量屢創新高。在重新開業之后，會員數量至少在60天之后才再次穩定下來。但自從疫情爆發之后，拉彭稱店面在3月之后的潛在客戶數量同比增長了約46%，線上潛在客戶數量增長了22%。
拉彭說：“由于大多數州當前都實施了口罩佩戴強制令，我認為睫毛服務在今后將變得比疫情之前更受歡迎。即便帶著口罩，其他人依然能看到，也只能看到你美麗的雙眼，而不是你的妝容或嘴唇。”
如今，Amazing Lash Studio全美所有店面都已經開業，并提供店內服務，但加州除外，因為該店由于7月加州新冠病例的上升而被勒令閉店。然而，眾多店面的經理正在盡最大努力在店面之外提供睫毛嫁接服務。
Amazing Lash Studio的首席執行官西澤·埃爾羅德說：“公司的一些店面所有者想盡了一切辦法來提供店面外服務，例如將停車場或人行道變為工作室，同時遵循公司已經實施的業內領先的安全衛生準則。”他還表示，一些工作室發現室外營業業績比疫情前店內業績更高。“顧客非常感激能有機會享受些許個人護理服務以及回歸生活常態。”
在其他州已經重新營業的店面中，店面較低的接待能力難以滿足人們被壓抑的需求，埃爾羅德將其歸咎于每個預約之間所需的深度清潔時間，店面需要用這些時間來深度打掃包間和公共區域。此舉要求沙龍經理們在預約安排方面運用更多的策略，包括使用交錯排班來避免接待區的人流聚集。
埃爾羅德說：“在眼下這個時期，口罩已經成為人們生活的一部分。相對于以前，我們的雙眼已經成了一種更為有力的自我展現方式。我們的專注點一直在于掌控自己的雙眼，而且我們對于創新的承諾從未改變。”（財富中文網）
譯者：Feb
Greater consumer interest in eye makeup has been building for months, tracking closely to the increase of face mask usage since the emergence of COVID-19 at the beginning of the year. In China, Alibaba reported eye makeup sales increased 150%, month over month by the end of February. In South Korea, sales of eye makeup increased by 51.8% in March, year over year, at Lalavla, the health and beauty store chain operated by GS Retail. And Seoul-based Aekyung Industry’s cosmetics brand Luna saw a 100% monthly increase in orders in March for its eyeliner. Lotte Shopping, which operates department stores and discount stores in South Korea, found higher-end beauty brands, like Dior and Bobbi Brown, saw sales growth of 40% in eye makeup sales in February.
“This beauty boom has been driven in part by the popularity of ‘mask makeup looks,’ a trending phrase on social media that took off when Chinese beauty influencers began sharing makeup looks to wear with surgical masks amid the COVID-19 outbreak,” wrote Christine Chou for Alizila, the news unit at Alibaba, on March 30. “Per Taobao Live, a series of live-stream sessions on how to create makeup looks while wearing masks attracted 8.2 million viewers on Feb. 18, and led to a 150% month-over-month sales increase of eye shadow palettes that week.”
In the cosmetics aisle, lipstick sales saw the biggest drop in the U.S. with Amazon tracking a 15% decline, compared with a 5% increase for eye cosmetics in the four weeks leading up to April 11. Sheena Yaitanes, founder of Kosas Cosmetics, a clean beauty brand with cult and celebrity followings and sold at Sephora and Goop, says the company saw a 12% increase in sales for its eye category from January to August.
“The biggest thing we’ve seen is an acceleration of a trend that we were already seeing in 2019, which was a shift away from complicated, layered, ultraprecise beauty looks that had taken over all our feeds in the preceding few years,” Yaitanes tells Fortune.
But it might not just be mask mandates fueling interest in eye makeup but also the desire to look polished for video calls and meetings, suggests Gayitri Budhraja, vice president of brand at e.l.f. Cosmetics.
“We’ve seen a shift from categories like foundation to a trend towards lighter-wear makeup or products that help you be ‘Zoom-ready,’ like concealer, for example,” Budhraja says. “And while fuller pigment lip color is down, traditionally a lighter form, such as lip gloss and lip balm, is up.”
And Budhraja says she has seen the industry soften in the eye category since the pandemic, explaining that at e.l.f., the brand has seen a shift where brow and eyeliner have softened (but are still positive in sales) while eye shadow has picked up. “We are seeing strength in our launches from earlier this year [Bite-Size eye shadow and Liquid Glitter], as well as continued growth in core black eyeliners and brow, which is the No. 1 [seller] in America,” Budhraja says, citing Nielsen data from June 2020.
But it’s not just eye makeup seeing a surge but also eye-focused cosmetology services, such as eyelash extensions and permanent color tinting for eyelashes and eyebrows.
“I believe this is due to women putting greater emphasis on the appearance of their eyes with mask mandates in place,” says Emily Raburn, owner of several Amazing Lash Studio locations in Texas. Before the pandemic, Raburn says sales in all of her locations were trending upward, hitting membership numbers not seen before. After reopening, it took a minimum of 60 days for numbers to stabilize again. But since the pandemic started, Raburn says her business saw a spike of roughly 46% in year-over-year client leads and a 22% increase in digital client leads since March.
“Because of mandates in most states currently, I believe that eyelashes are becoming even more popular now than before the pandemic,” Raburn says. “Even while wearing a mask, other people can still see your beautiful eyes—not your makeup or your lips—just your eyes.”
Right now, all locations of Amazing Lash Studio are open nationwide for indoor services, with the exception of California, where services were ordered to shut down again in July as COVID-19 cases spiked. However, many franchise managers are trying their best, and eyelash extension services can be provided outside the walls of the studio.
“We have owners who have rolled up their sleeves and found a way to make it happen, turning a parking lot or sidewalk into a studio, while at the same time following the industry-leading safety and sanitation protocols we have implemented,” says Heather Elrod, CEO of Amazing Lash Studio, adding that some studios are seeing higher service volumes outside, versus pre–COVID-19 indoor service levels. “Guests have been so grateful for the opportunity to enjoy a little self-care and return to normal.”
In studios that have reopened in other states, Elrod describes the balancing act in meeting pent-up demand with lower capacity owing to the extra time taken for enhanced cleaning between each appointment to deep-clean private rooms and common areas. This requires salon managers to be more strategic in the scheduling of appointments, including using staggered schedules to avoid gatherings in the reception area.
“During this time when masks are part of our daily routine, our eyes are an even more powerful form of personal expression than they were before,” Elrod says. “Our focus has always been on owning the eyes, and our commitment to innovation has not wavered.”
