當你到一個陌生的城市旅游的時候，漫無目的地在街頭走來走去，仍然是感受城市脈搏的一種理想方式。如果是跟著旅游團走，雖然有時難免感到單調無趣，卻也是一次性搞定城市熱門景點的好辦法。除此之外，還有一些有創意的旅游方式也非常值得嘗試。比如說，你是否想象過，你在欣賞米蘭的斯福爾扎古堡的景色的同時，面前還擺著一盤正宗的番茄意面，手上還端著一杯干得恰到好處的意大利阿布魯佐干紅？有了ATMosfera，這一切將不再只是想象。

從外表看去，ATMosfera的觀光電車跟其他那些整天在米蘭市里穿梭的有軌電車并無不同——輪子下面是鐵軌，車子頭頂是電線，這種有軌電車是當地人最常用的交通工具。而車子里面則是另外一幅場景——無論是形式上還是功能上，它已經完全被改造成了一個移動餐廳（目前米蘭已經有兩個這樣的移動餐廳了）。

“該項目脫胎于Azienda Trasporti Milanesi公司（簡稱ATM）的一個內部項目?！盇TM公司酒吧與餐廳業務商務經理塞薩爾·扎農塞利表示：“除了傳統的公共交通之外，我們還在尋求產品線的多元化。我們想為整個社會提供一些東西，這只是其中的一部分，同時我們還有共享單車、共享汽車等項目?！边@項服務利用了米蘭現有的有軌電車系統，沿著一條預先設定的路線，能經過城市的大部分區域。

Sure, aimless walks around a new city while traveling remain ideal ways to tune into the pulse of a town. And organized tours, albeit at times monotonous and long, are indeed efficient methods of tackling an area’s top attractions. But there is something to be said about alternative, creative modes of sightseeing when exploring a new city. Have you ever imagined, for example, admiring Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, a former castle-turned-museum, while simultaneously indulging in a perfectly prepared plate of pasta pomodoro and sipping on a cup of just-dry-enough red wine from Italy’s Abruzzo region? Well, you can actually do that while in town, courtesy of ATMosfera.

From the outside, ATMosfera tram cars look just like the ones traversing Milan all day long: bounded by rails on the ground and overhead wires, the trolley-like machines are popular modes of transportation used by locals. A peek inside these reupholstered and re-outfitted cars paints a different picture: the trams (there are now two in Milan) have effectively been converted in both form and function into itinerant restaurants.

“The project was born within Azienda Trasporti Milanesi (ATM),” says Cesare Zanoncelli, the commercial manager of the business, bar and restaurant line at ATM, the city's public transport company. “We were looking to diversify our offerings and go beyond public transport. We wanted to offer something to society as a whole. This was part of it: we also had bike sharing and car sharing programs.” The service makes use of the public tramway system already set up in Milan, following a pre-established route navigating a majority of the city.

雖然這是意大利和歐洲的第一家流動餐廳（第一輛車在2005年投入運營，第二輛車于2006年啟動），但是該項目的創意卻是來自澳大利亞的墨爾本。墨爾本的“殖民地有軌電車餐廳”包含三輛改裝過的老式有軌電車，于1982年11月在墨爾本投入運營。出于安全考慮，它在2018年10月被關閉了。不過墨爾本仍計劃將這種用餐體驗保留下來，只不過重新開張后，電車可能會停在一個固定的地方不再開動。

由于一輛流動餐車上只有24個座位，想預留座位的旅客，必須至少提前40天預訂。旅客可以選擇吃正餐或是早午餐（早午餐只在周六、日兩天提供），菜單也是基本固定的（魚、肉、素食等）。此外，旅客還可以注明自己對哪些食材過敏或者不耐受，然后選擇自己想喝的酒（每兩人限一瓶，早午餐不含酒水）。然后旅客只需在預訂的時間登車即可。該餐車全程約兩個半小時，起點是米蘭的卡斯特羅廣場，之后你便可盡情享受這次米蘭美食之旅了。

Although the first itinerant restaurant of its kind in Italy and Europe (the first car was set in motion back in 2005, the second in 2006) as a whole, the project was originally thought up in Melbourne, Australia. The Colonial Tramcar Restaurant project consisted of three converted vintage W class trams in Melbourne that began operating in November of 1982. Citing safety concerns, the system was shut down in October 2018, but plans to operate the eateries within the trolleys as “stationary dining experiences” are under way.

The idea is simple: guests, who must reserve one of the 24 seats per car up to 40 days in advance, choose between dinner and brunch (only available on Saturdays and Sundays) service, select a pre-fixe menu (fish, meat, vegetarian), note allergies or intolerances, pick the kind of wine bottle they’d like to enjoy (one for every two people, no bottle included in brunch reservations), and show up at the designated time to enjoy an almost two-and-a-half-hour-long seated tour of the city that begins in Piazza Castello and ends up becoming a journey of the culinary kind as well.

兩輛流動餐廳都有一個保留下來的售票室，售票室的旁邊是廚房，里面有電磁爐、烤箱和兩個冰箱等廚具，廚師會在這里烹飪一部分食物，然后由服務員端上餐桌。ATM與一家餐飲公司有合作，這家餐飲公司會根據預先設定好的菜單（每張菜單有四道菜）提前準備部分菜品。而菜單則會根據季節有所調整。

車上是沒有導游的，這輛流動餐廳也只是按預先設定的線路老老實實地走。路線可以分為兩個部分，第一段基本是繞著米蘭市北部走，然后車子會停上10分鐘，讓煙民們下車抽根煙。第二部分則是在米蘭市的南邊穿行，期間還會經過米蘭著名的納維利區。

Each one of the two trolleys boasts a preserved conductors’ cabin alongside a kitchen outfitted with an induction plate, an oven and two refrigerators, where a chef cooks part of the food that’s then served by the waiter on board. The company works with a catering business that prepares part of the fare in a warehouse, based on a pre-established set of menus—four courses each—that change seasonally.

What you won’t find on board, though, is a guide, the “touring” aspect of the experience solely relegated to the actual route taken by the tram: the first part of the ride circulates Northern Milan while the second, after a ten-minute “cigarette break,” navigates the Southern portion of the city, including the famous Navigli district.

扎農塞利表示：“這個項目本來就是想讓游客吃一頓溫馨浪漫的飯，它的目標客戶主要是情侶和小團體，而不是普通游客。如果我們在車上安排一位導游，旅游的感覺就太濃厚了，而我們想重點關注浪漫的部分?！辈贿^扎農塞利也承認，目前該流動餐廳的大多數食客都是游客。該流動餐車全年365天無休，但由于它非常受歡迎，ATM公司正在考慮增加第三輛電車，以提高接待能力。

說到浪漫這個話題，當被問到流動餐廳投入運營14年來，餐廳里發生過哪些令人難忘的浪漫故事時，扎農塞利很快記起了各種各樣的求婚場景。“我們的電車上甚至舉辦過真正的婚禮！至于求婚，經常是電車一到終點，燈光暗下來，就有人掏出戒指，問出了那個問題。直到現在，我們還沒見到有人拒絕過！”（財富中文網）

譯者:樸成奎

“The project was born as an intimate dinner,” Zanoncelli explains. “The structure was built with couples and small groups in mind, we weren’t necessarily thinking of tourists. If we were to put a tour guide on board, the essence of the experience would have been too tourist-focused, and we wanted to focus on the romantic part.” Nonetheless, Zanoncelli acknowledges that ATMosfera, which operates 365 days a year, is mostly boarded by travelers. Given the service’s popularity, ATM is looking into expanding capacity by adding a third tram to the roster.

Speaking of romance: when prodded about standout, memorable occurrences that took place on the tram in its 14-year history, Zanoncelli is quick to remember various marriage proposals. “There are also actual weddings that took place on board!” he says. “As for the proposals, once the tour ends, the lights are dimmed, and the question is asked. Until now, we haven’t yet witnessed a turndown!”