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《老友記》安妮斯頓投資“緊膚神器”:年收入過億美元

《老友記》安妮斯頓投資“緊膚神器”:年收入過億美元

Colleen Leahey 2014年05月20日
護膚品公司Living Proof利用麻省理工學院的研發團隊打造了一款新型“緊膚神器”,號稱能讓人年輕20歲。憑借《老友記》走紅的安妮斯頓原本只是受邀代言,結果上了當,成了公司的投資人,不僅出力,還要出錢。
????照片攝于本月初,左起依次為:喬恩?弗林特、吉爾?貝勞德、詹妮弗?安妮斯頓、鮑伯?蘭格。
地點:馬薩諸塞州劍橋市Living Proof公司總部

????羅斯瑪麗?莫蘭身上有種讓人說不清道不明的地方。說得更準確些,讓人迷惑的是那雙已經閱盡人間春秋63年的眼睛。如果分開看的話,莫蘭的左右兩半邊臉似乎截然不同。左眼下邊的皮膚已經松馳了,正是一個花甲老婦的眼袋。但是右半邊臉的皮膚卻非常緊致,看起來似乎年輕了20歲。

????莫蘭在Living Proof公司向我們展示了這張令人稱奇的臉。Living Proof是一家成立于2005年的護膚品公司,由北極星合伙公司(Polaris Partners)出資5000萬美元建立,好萊塢女星詹妮弗?安妮斯頓是這家公司的代言人,同時也是一位投資人。雖然這家公司的重點在于美容,但它的總部卻與安進(Amgen)和Biogen生物科技巨頭一樣,坐落在馬薩諸塞州的劍橋市。Living Proof選擇在劍橋落戶是有道理的,它的總部和麻省理工學院(MIT)的科學家羅伯特?蘭格的實驗室只隔了幾條街,而Living Proof的產品所用的技術正是在那里孵化的。

????蘭格的團隊為Living Proof開發的最新產品就是用在莫蘭右眼皮膚下的一種叫做Neotensil的明膠,它可以起到緊致皮膚的效果。Neotensil是以一款名叫Strateris的專利產品為基礎開發的,而后者則是由透過真皮給藥的專家貝蒂?于(音譯)以及皮膚學家羅克斯?安德森和芭芭拉?吉爾克萊斯特共同開發的。Strateris是一種可以貼在臉部的聚合物膜,它可以模擬年輕皮膚的緊致和彈性,只要把它貼在臉上,就可以重新塑造皮膚形象——如果有些難以理解的話,不妨想象一下Spanx公司推出的可以吸收掉肚腩的塑身內衣。Strateris的效果可以持續16個小時,使用3小時后效果最佳。

????Strateris背后的復雜科學原理對于Living Proof來說并不新奇,因為這家公司的護發系列產品——也就是安尼斯頓代言的產品,也出自蘭格的實驗室。蘭格說:“我們在MIT做的很多工作都是基礎性的研究,它們可以被應用在方方面面。”Living Proof的洗發水中用到的一種叫做Polyalkylaminoester-1的聚氨基酯,就是蘭格和他的同事在研究基因療法的過程中從數萬種聚合物中發現的。他說:“通過合成新的聚合物,人們可以解決各種各樣的問題,不管是癌癥、基因療法還是頭發護理。”

????蘭格之所以突然進軍美容業,還要歸功于北極星公司創始合作人喬恩?弗林特。弗林特雖然是四個女兒的父親,但是從來沒有對美容美發感興趣過——直到他聽說寶寶與寶寶集團(Bumble and Bumble)于2000年以據說1億美元的價格把雅詩蘭黛賣了出去,他才對這個行業上了心。于是他叫來一名副手,讓他去匯總各種行業報告,而且“真的買了幾十種”美容美發產品回來研究。弗林特把這些瓶瓶罐罐擺在一起研究了半天,最后發現,它們雖然配方可能不一樣,但基本成分幾乎完全相同。“這真是扯淡”,他對自己說。然后,他立刻給蘭格打了電話。這兩人立即召集起一支由五名科學家組成的團隊,這些人都沒有美容業的經驗。接下來,弗林特要求他們開發一些美容美發產品,要求“必須站在屋子那頭也能看到效果。”蘭格表示,這個挑戰其實很簡單。“競爭太差勁了,和我在制藥行業觀察到的競爭程度相比,美容美發行業的創新太少了。可以說我們是在摘唾手可得的果子。”但是對于一群科學家組成的團隊來說,想光靠自己生產出一款家喻戶曉的產品并不容易。

????于是,Living Proof在2012年將安妮斯頓拉進了公司。當時Living Proof在QVC(全球最大的電視與網絡百貨零售商)上的銷量已經相當不錯了(據弗林特表示,光是第一年的銷售額就達到1000萬美元),而且它在絲芙蘭、Ultra等專柜上的銷量也令人滿意,但這家公司還是想借明星的號召力給產品造勢。百事可樂公司(PepsiCo)前營銷總監吉爾?貝勞德在2011年底當上了Living Proof的CEO,幫助弗林特聘請一線明星給產品代言。通過發型師克里斯?麥克米蘭的推薦,安妮斯頓試用了Living Proof的洗發水三個月。然后,Living Proof的研發團隊將安妮斯頓請到他們的實驗室,向她展示了這款洗發水背后的科技原理——這次訪問給人的感覺有點像高中的化學課,安妮斯頓當時笑著說:“化學是我高中學得很好的一門課。”

????不過,這里也有一個“陷阱”。Living Proof想要的不只是一個代言人,還希望這位代言人能在經濟上、情感上都全面投入,謀求這家公司的成功。安妮斯頓說:“我記得當時我不禁想道:‘真的嗎?’”就這樣,大概一年多以前,安妮斯頓成了公司的老板之一,并且與麥克米蘭一起啟動了“完美發型日”的廣告活動。貝勞德表示,自從安妮斯頓加盟后,公司的業務已經翻了一番。【 《女性時裝日報》(Women's Wear Daily )稱,這家公司的年收入約1億美元左右。】

????There's something confusing about Rosemary Moran. Well, more accurately, there's something confusing about the 63-year-old's eyes. Viewed separately, each side of Moran's face tells a very different story. The skin under her left eye appropriately sags, hammocking into a bag befitting of any elderly woman. But the right side? It's taut -- with the healthy puff of a woman 20 years younger.

????Moran shows off her curiously uneven look at Living Proof, the beauty company started in 2005 by Polaris Partners that's raised over $50 million in funding and boasts actress Jennifer Aniston as a spokesperson and investor. Despite its focus on aesthetics, Living Proof's headquarters is tucked amid biotech giants like Amgen (AMGN) and Biogen (BIIB) in Cambridge, Mass. The location's strategic: It's blocks away from MIT scientist Robert Langer's laboratory, where Living Proof products' technology gets its start.

????Neotensil, the clear adhesive that compresses the skin under Moran's right eye, is the most recent Living Proof development to come from Langer's team. It was built off of Strateris, a trademarked product developed by Dr. Betty Yu, an expert in trans-dermal drug delivery, and dermatologists Rox Anderson and Barbara Gilchrest. A wearable polymer film that mimics young skin's strength and elasticity, Strateris sits atop loose skin and reshapes it -- think of it as the facial equivalent of Spanx's tummy-shrinking undergarments. Its effects last for 16 hours, peaking three hours after application.

????The complex science behind Strateris isn't new to Living Proof. Its haircare line -- which Aniston is the face of -- is also covered in Langer's fingerprints. "A lot of what we do at MIT is fundamental work that can be applied across the board," Langer explains. One of the ingredients used in Living Proof's shampoo, the volumizing Polyalkylaminoester-1 (PBAE), was developed from a library of tens of thousands of polymers that Langer and his colleagues organized to study gene therapy. "By making new polymers, you can solve all kinds of things, whether it's cancer or gene therapy or haircare."

????Langer forayed into the beauty world because of Polaris founding partner Jon Flint. Despite being dad to four daughters, Flint was never interested in hair and skincare -- until he heard about Bumble and Bumble's 2000 sale to Estée Lauder (EL) for a reported $100 million. He called a Polaris associate and asked him to gather up industry reports and buy "literally dozens" of hair and skin products. Putting the products side by side, Flint realized all the bottles' ingredients -- though formulated differently -- were pretty much identical. "This is B.S.," he said to himself -- and immediately called Langer. The duo organized a group of five scientists who had no beauty experience and asked them to come up with hair and skin products that created "results seen across the room." Langer says the challenge was easy. "The competition was so bad. There was so little innovation compared to what I'd see in the pharmaceutical industry. In a way, it's like low-hanging fruit." But a lab full of scientists doesn't automatically create a household product.

????Living Proof brought on Aniston in October 2012. Though it was selling a decent number of products through QVC ($10 million in its first year, says Flint) and storefronts like Sephora and Ulta, it needed some extra starpower to generate buzz. Former PepsiCo Chief Marketing Officer Jill Beraud became the company's CEO in late 2011 and helped Flint recruit the A-lister. With her longtime hairstylist Chris McMillan, Aniston tested the Living Proof shampoo for three months. The company's R&D team then took her into their lab, showing her the science behind the shampoos, a tour reminiscent of a high school chemistry class. "And that was the one subject that I was good at," Aniston laughs.

????But there was a catch. Living Proof wanted more than a spokesperson; they wanted someone who was emotionally and financially vested in the company's success. "I remember thinking, 'Is this real life?'" says Aniston. She became a co-owner of the company a little over a year ago and launched the Perfect Hair Day campaign with McMillan. Since Aniston joined, Beraud says business has doubled. (Women's Wear Daily reported that revenue's around $100 million.)

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